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The bars have much better spirits, but then, they cost extra, as does sunblock, moisturizer, film and anything else one might need to buy at the on-site store.

The free wine and beer is cheap and watery, but not at all undrinkable, and certainly good enough to get through meals.And with its Mediterranean-style rooms terraced into the steep hillsides, the village fronts the Costa de Careyes, or Coast of Turtles--so called because that is what the islands look like. My shower drain clogged easily, my room key didn’t always work and the first night I got a lousy room without a view or patio.I asked for another room the next morning, and the staff was happy to oblige.Then it grew into a conglomerate catering to smooching couples, families and burnt-out yuppies in search of an “antidote to civilization,” as the ads trumpeted.Now, faced with brutal competition from the growing number of all-inclusive resorts, where one price buys you room, board and all activities, Club Med recently began repositioning some of its resorts, including Playa Blanca, as “singles” villages again.

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At breakfast many a conversation at the large dining-commons tables, I found, would center on who had left the disco with whom and never made it home.

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